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As a Jeep owner, there are few events more frightening than experiencing the dreaded “Death Wobble”. Unfortunately, there are typically no warning signs that a serious mechanical problem even exists. Death Wobble, or DW often occurs suddenly; like immediately after hitting a pot hole, a substantial bump in the road, crossing a railroad track or even while driving over expansion joints in the highway concrete. The DW experience is generally a violent “my front wheels are coming off” feeling, where the driver literally feels like they are about to meet their maker. In most cases the only way to end the ordeal is to bring the vehicle to a complete standstill, and can leave some drivers so traumatized that they refuse to ever drive the vehicle again. Resulting in the ominous craigslist post that reads: “JEEP FOR SALE, CONDITION - UNKNOWN...LARGE STAIN ON DRIVERS SEAT”

WHAT IS DEATH WOBBLE?

“Death Wobble” is the creative expression coined by Jeep owners that describes the situation where the entire vehicle begins to shake uncontrollably as a result of severe oscillation (movement back and forth at a regular speed) of the front axle making the vehicle difficult, if not impossible to control; and let’s be honest, when driving a vehicle, control is pretty paramount.  A simple shimmy in the steering wheel alone does not constitute DW, but more likely indicates your tires may simply be out of balance. If you are not absolutely certain you’ve experienced a Death Wobble event, I can almost assure you that you haven’t.

WHAT CAUSES DEATH WOBBLE?

DW is actually a pretty straight forward problem, typically caused by loose bolts, damaged components, or improper installation of aftermarket lift kits, suspension or steering parts. That being said, sometimes the cause is not so straight forward and the wobbling is the result of the suspension system in some way being out of equilibrium. Unfortunately there are several components in the suspension system that can create or contribute to the problem. The only safe bet is a complete examination of the vehicles front suspension and steering components. Regrettably, just one instance of DW can cause excessive damage on several steering and/or suspension parts. Any damaged parts will need immediate replacement to prevent a DW re-occurrence. (And possibly saving you from another embarrassing seat stain)

Multiple Death Wobble episodes can result in damage to the following components:

*Ball Joints *Tire Rod Ends-including the adjustment sleeve end on the driver side *Track Bar Bushings *Track Bar Bracket Bolt Holes *Steering Selector Shaft (where the pitman arm attaches to the steering box) *Steering Stabilizer * Front Lower Control Arm Bracket Bolt Holes * Wheel Unit Bearings *Track Bar Bracket Welds * Drag Link Ends

*The diagram on this post will help you to identify many of your front end suspension and steering components

WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF DEATH WOBBLE?

FRONT TRACK BAR BOLT:

DW can arise as a result of loose or worn out suspension and/or steering components, with the most common cause being a loose front track bar bolt, worn out track bar bushing, or failing front track bar mount. Sometimes, the front track bar may be physically bending or flexing. It is a good practice to regularly re-torque the track bar bolts to 125-130ft. lbs. on a regular basis...especially if you spend much time off-road.

BALL JOINTS:

The second most common cause of DW is worn out ball joints. Many factory ball joints don’t have “zerts” or grease fittings and may contain plastic components that are susceptible to heat and wear... particularly if you are running much larger tires on wheels with less back spacing than the stock configuration. To check your ball joints yourself, (with a jack or lift of some kind) lift the wheel off the ground and grab each tire at 9 and 3 o’clock, and try to push and pull it. Repeat grabbing at 12 and 6 o’clock as well, if the ball joint is good there should be absolutely no back and forth movement in the wheel whatsoever. If it moves at all, the ball joints are shot and you need new ones.

OTHER ITEMS THAT MIGHT CONTRIBUTE TO DEATH WOBBLE:

The regular vibration of unbalanced tires will cause strain and wear on suspension and steering components; left unchecked it can easily work bolts loose. The additional movement will eventually compound and become exaggerated until it results in DW. Several other conditions can bring about a DW episode such as a toe-in or caster settings that are significantly off, worn out or loose front shocks that are not valving properly. Which again result in the wearing out of components and the loosening of bolts. Once that occurs to parts like the front track bar, Death Wobble can result.

HOW TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF DEATH WOBBLE:

1.     Remove the steering stabilizer. The steering stabilizer is designed to dampen movement in your front axle, leaving it in place will make it difficult to determine the actual cause of your DW. If your suspension and steering components are in good condition, installed properly and at the correct torque setting a stabilizer isn’t even really required for safe operation. Yes, having one is a good idea, but isn’t a “must have”. Yes it can help prevent DW from occurring, but more than likely it will just mask the real cause of your problems.

2.     Visually inspect steering and suspension components. With the engine running, slowly turn full left to full right while someone else (with hands on the components) visually and auditorily inspect: tire rod ends, drag link ends, sector shaft, track bar ends/bolts/brackets and track bar bracket welds for any play or shiny metal.

3.     Perform the same inspection again. Instead of the slow full left to right approach, use short, sharp, quick back and forth turns of the steering wheel between the 10 and 2 o’clock positions.

4.     Inspect the front track bar. Remove the front track bar and inspect the bolt holes for ovaling. With the track bar in a vise, inspect the bushings for separation or cracking using a long screwdriver through the bolt sleeve. Apply leverage against the bushing in all directions, if there are no noticeable issues reinstall the track bar with the tires on the ground and the right torque of 125-130 ft. lbs.

5.     Inspect the drag link end joints. Using a pair of large channel locks, check for up and down play in the drag link ends. (there should not be any significant up and down play if there is, the ends should be replaced.) Perhaps even a complete new drag link with heavy duty joints should be installed. Torque the drag link ends to the proper specifications. Keep in mind that taller lifts create more potential problems with drag link ends.

6.     Inspect the tie rod ends for up and down play. Using the same channel lock wrench, check for up and down movement. There should only be rotational movement in the joint end.

7.     Inspect the lower ball joints. Raise the front axle off the ground and place it on jack stands. With the tires approximately 2” off the ground, use a long pry bar as a level under the front tires and try to lift them up to determine any up and down play in the lower ball joints. (there should be no more than 1-2mm of play if any)

8.     Inspect the upper ball joints. With your hands grab each tire at 9 and 3 o’clock and try to push and pull it. Repeat this with your hands at 12 and 6 o’clock as well. If the ball joint is good, there should be absolutely no back-and-forth movement whatsoever. If it moves at all, the ball joints are shot and you need new ones.

9.     Inspect the tie rod ends for side to side play. Remove the front tires and wheels, then remove the tie rod one knuckle at a time. Using a large wrench or vice grips, inspect the end for side to side play. If no play is discovered reinstall the end, torque to spec, and repeat the process on the other side.

10.  Inspect the front wheel unit bearings. Remove the brake calipers and brake disks to inspect the unit bearings for free play, hard to rotate or rough feel, making noises etc. Running large, heavy off-road tires on wheels that have less back spacing than stock will put significantly more strain on your unit bearings which will cause them to wear out prematurely. Worn out bearings can result in your wheels looking like they have camber to them. Not unlike bad ball joints, worn out unit bearings can allow for enough movement to cause DW.

11.  Inspect the upper and lower control arm bushings and bolts. With a floor jack, support but don’t lift the front axle. Loosen the front control arm bolts. (upper and lower on the axle side) One at a time, drop the control arms to inspect the bolt holes and bushings (similar to the approach used with the track bar inspection) Reinstall the bolt but don’t torque yet. Repeat this inspection on the other control arms. After completing the inspections, remove the floor jack so the suspension is at ride height. Rock the vehicle side to side and front to back to release and bind on the bushings, then torque to proper specifications,

12.  Inspect the sector shaft. I would inspect the sector shaft that comes out of the steering box for cracking or twisting. You will be looking at the bottom of the steering box, where the sector shaft comes out. As the pitman arm tries to move the drag link back and forth, the sector shaft ill move from side to side if there is any play.

13.  Test drive the vehicle. Take the vehicle for a drive (without the steering stabilizer installed)to determine if the wobble still exists.

14.  Reinstall the steering stabilizer.

15.  Wheel alignment. If this front end inspection is done completely and does not solve the problem or at least diagnose the cause of the issue, then it is time for a computerized wheel alignment. Remember:

*If you have adjustable control arms, adjust the lower front control arms to set the caster specs between 4 and 5 degrees-with cross caster showing less on the driver side than on the passenger side. Preferably with a target around 4.5-4.7 degrees caster.

*If your ball joints passed the inspection but your camber is still out of spec, you may need adjustable ball joints.

*Set the toe-in spec on the alignment machine- (which is about a 1/16”-1/18” toe-in depending on tire size.)

 

IS DEATH WOBBLE EXCLUSIVE TO JEEPS?

Not necessarily.

Keep in mind that first and foremost, Jeep Wrangler vehicles have solid axle, coil sprung suspensions and a front and rear track bar suspension set-up. Secondly, many Jeep owners lift, modify and/or install after market track bars and various other components. If inferior or incorrect parts are installed, or if these modifications are not done properly and suspension components go unchecked, including all fasteners tightened to proper torque specs on a regular basis, the risk of Death Wobble is significantly increased. DW also occurs in some Ford and Dodge trucks as well, especially older coil sprung straight axle Broncos.

With proper installation and maintenance of components, you can keep your Jeep out of the grip of the elusive Death Wobble for good. If you do experience a Death Wobble episode, please contact Texas Tire Sales in Weatherford, Texas or call us at (817) 598-0333. We will help you diagnose and solve any suspension and/or steering issues that you are having with your Jeep.